ABOUT THE BEHIND THE SEAMS CLUB: A PATTERN-CUTTER’S GUIDE TO FASHION HISTORY

Have you ever walked around a museum/art gallery/fashion exhibition and been left brimming with inspiration and wanting to start making your own designs? Then this is the course for you! Our new set of classes is all about fashion history from the pattern-cutters’s perspective. Every month for the next year we are delving into a different time period to explore its signature silhouettes and unpick the pattern-cutting techniques behind them. Each class features step-by-step tutorials to follow along and draft designs inspired by that period ranging from a full outfit to finer details like necklines, collars, cuffs, fastenings and so on.

Each two hour class will be divided into three sections:

SECTION 1: FASHION HISTORY ROMP

Looking at the original source material to discover the fashionable:

• shapes and silhouettes
• fabrics
• decoration and embellishment 
• sewing technology 
• social and political context

SECTION 2: WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND

Looking at how the period in question has popped up in later fashions and inspired modern-day designers.

SECTION 3: OVER TO YOU!

Time for some pattern-cutting - we’ll show you how to take your new historical knowledge to the cutting table and start to create modern designs inspired by the period. We have drafted a special block which will form the basis of the styles for the whole Behind the Seams series so you can draft-along with us in your own size. Alternatively you can follow along using the mini-blocks provided with each session.

FOLLOW UP SUPPORT

After each class we will provide :

• recording of the session
• follow up pdf with the draft-along designs
• a bibliography of sources

HOW THE CLASSES WORK

WHEN? The first Monday of every month, 6.30-8.30pm UK TIME, beginning Monday 3rd October 2022. All sessions are recorded.

WHERE? All classes will take place as a video meeting via Zoom so you can interact and ask questions along the way. Once you sign up for the class you will receive a download which includes all the details of how to join the class. On the morning of the class you will also receive a direct link to join the class. Please note that you will need to be subscribed up to our newsletter in order to receive emails from us (there is a checkbox when you sign up for the class)

HOW? There are two ways to join:

Option 1: ALL ACCESS - £225 one-off payment for the full year - use the add to cart/buy button above

Includes:

• access to all 12 live classes
• recordings available forever
• draft-along follow-up pdf + bibliography
• multi-size croquis pdf
• mini-blocks pdf
• full size Behind The Seams block (see below for more info)
• access to our Behind The Seams Club community group
• bonus zoom ‘studio sessions’ with Alice & Lilia for additional pattern-cutting tips, guidance and fun!

Option 2: DROP IN - £20 per class paid individually - CLICK HERE to book drop in sessions

Includes:

• access to the selected live class
• recording available for 30 days after the class
• multi-size croquis pdf
• mini-blocks pdf
• draft-along follow-up pdf + bibliography
• option to add the Behind The Seams full-size block for a one-off cost of £25. This means you can draft-along with us in your own size - click here for the block. 

ABOUT THE BEHIND THE SEAMS FULL SIZE BLOCK

The block that we have drafted to accompany this course consists of a separate bodice, skirt and sleeve which can be combined to create any design. It’s based on the Telestia system we always use for our patterns to ensure a good fit for most figures.

The size range is UK 6 to 26. The grade is 3 dimensional which means that the bust dart increases in size with the bust circumference. You can easily glide between sizes to achieve a perfect fit.

The block is downloadable as a pdf in paper sizes A4 and US letter for home printing. You will also get an A0 file if you prefer to use a professional printer. We recommend Patternsy in the UK.

This block will form the basis of the styles for the whole Behind The Seams series and will also be invaluable for any other designs. 

The block is included if you sign up for the 'ALL ACCESS' option or you can purchase it separately here. 

IN SUMMARY

Behind The Seams participants will enjoy:

• over 2,000 years of fashion history explained
• 12 inspirational classes to unleash your inner designer
• a library of drafting tutorials to get creative and start making your own garments
• a fun time with Alice and Lilia and a fabulous wardrobe at the end!

----- FULL PROGRAMME -----

SESSION 1: PRE 500AD THE ANCIENT WORLD We’re kicking off the first session of the BEHIND THE SEAMS CLUB with a deep dive into the fashions of the Ancient World. Between them the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans taught us there’s a lot you can do with a rectangle of cloth - from simple sheath dresses to elaborate drapery. We’ll be looking at statues, pots, frescoes and mosaics to deduce the construction methods of these garments, before having a go ourselves with an Ancient World inspired pattern-cutting project. Expect draping, minimal sewing and original zero waste designs!

SESSION 2: 500-1500 THE MIDDLE AGES In our second BEHIND THE SEAMS CLUB session we’ll be combing through illuminated manuscripts, mosaics and paintings to uncover the development of the shaped gowns and kirtles of the Medieval and Byzantine period. We will look at how the so-called ‘dark ages’ were actually full of rich colours, sumptuous silks, glittering cloth-of-gold all trimmed with jewelled embroidery and fur. Expect extravagant sleeves, impressive cloaks and chic jerkins.

SESSION 3: 1500-1700 THE EARLY MODERN This session will look at the fantastical fashions of the Early Modern period from Renaissance Europe to Tudor England. We’ll follow the rise of the ruff and fall of the falling collar, explore the intricate phenomena of slashed doublets and trunk-hose and squash ourselves into stays and stomachers. Expect puffs, panels and extravagant fabric manipulations and the perfect square neckline à la Anne Boleyn.

SESSION 4: 1700-1800 THE 18TH CENTURY The 18th Century offers a variety of pattern-cutting challenges from the sturdy upholstery of the mantua to billowing pleats of the sackback. In men’s dress we see the origins of the three-piece suit emerge as France and Britain tussle it out for fashion dominance in the newly-invented fashion plates. Expect wonderful waistcoats, shapely tailoring and pleated back details.

SESSION 5: 1800-1900 THE 19TH CENTURY A truly fashion packed century! The 1800s begin with the empire line and end with the bustle, experimenting with just about every corset shape in between. Industrialisation sews the seeds of change for the entire landscape of fabric and clothing manufacture into the next century with the invention of the sewing machine and aniline dyes. Alongside the birth of the factory the end of the century also sees the first ‘home sewing patterns’. On our cutting table we’ll be looking at the complex darts, panels and gores needed to keep up with the constantly shifting silhouettes of each decade. Expect lots of dart manipulation, shaped panels and a perhaps a foray into corsetry!

SESSION 6: 1900-1930 THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY The half-way mark of our BEHIND THE SEAMS CLUB sessions sees us into the beginning of the 20th Century where we will follow the transformation of fashion from Edwardian stuffiness to the riotously emancipatory flapper dresses of the 1920s. This is also the era where the concept of the ‘fashion designer’ takes off with the likes of Poiret, Fortuny, Lanvin and Chanel. There’s a lot to choose from here in terms of pattern-cutting - from classically-inspired draped silhouettes to neat and chic flapper dresses.

SESSION 7: 1930-1940 THE 1930s Our 1930s session has to be all about the bias. Pioneered by Madame Vionnet and championed by Hollywood - this was how to do bodycon before lycra. We will also get to look at one of our favourite designers of all time - Schiaparelli - a source of endless inspiration. Expect everything you ever wanted to know about cutting on the bias!

SESSION 8: 1940-1950 THE 1940s he wartime challenges of the 1940s ushered in the widespread adoption of trousers and tailoring for womenswear. Rationing and the ‘make do and mend’ mentality means you always find lots of quirky and creative details on 1940s clothing which we will explore from vintage examples and photographs. Expect tailoring, collars, panels, pleats and some ‘make more with less’ inspiration.

SESSION 9: 1950-1960 THE 1950s For our 1950s BEHIND THE SEAMS session we’ll be looking at how Dior’s New Look took hold of fashion with the fantasy of returning women to the kitchen and their corsets. It was all about creating soft, round, feminine shapes. Expect circle skirts, off the shoulder necklines, dolman sleeves and princess seams.

SESSION 10: 1960-1970 THE 1960s The 1960s breaks away from the romanticism of the 50s and the teenagers take over the fashion hierarchy. This is the era of Mary Quant, mini skirts and mass production as fashion becomes more affordable and democratised. Expect variations on the classic shift dress - from sleek and sophisticated to young and fun.

SESSION 11: 1970-1980 THE 1970s Our penultimate session will look at the much maligned 1970s - infamous for its fantastic flares, lairy lapels and profusion of paisley, but also the era of Vivienne Westwood punk, Missoni knits and Halston Studio 54 looks. We’ll rummage through the polyester (another gift of the 70s) to bring you the most inspirational looks from this eclectic decade. Expect halter necks, tiered skirts, palazzo pants and maybe even some crochet!

SESSION 12: 1980-1990 THE 1980s + 90s In our final BEHIND THE SEAMS CLUB session we’ll be raiding Mama Alice’s old wardrobe for 1980s and 90s inspiration! This is decade of the power dressing so we’ll embrace the shoulder pads and body con to bring us up to the most recent period of fashion history that we can still just about look back on with a critical eye. Expect strong shoulders, puffed sleeves, asymmetry and colour blocking.